HEY! MY PHOTO WAS PUBLISHED IN TORONTO STAR'S TRAVEL SECTION

---



Yay!

WEAKERTHANS WANDERING TOUR

Seeing Winnipeg, according to Weakerthans lyrics
by Theo Markou
Edited by Erin Pehlivan

When I told my friends and co-workers that I was going to spend my one week ration of summer vacation in Winnipeg, Manitoba, most gave me the same muted glare of disbelief. "Oh...good for you," they would say. What they actually meant was; there is no compelling or rational reason for a tourist to travel to Winnipeg.

The real reason I chose to visit Winnipeg was for my itching desire to experience a city that I feel close through song. John K. Samson, front man of the Winnipeg-based Weakerthans, writes the most evocative and illustrative lyrics that I’ve ever heard. Samson masterfully works emotion, sentimentalism, nostalgia, longing and political commentary into intelligent lyrics, without every becoming trite or obscure.

Listening to the album Fallow transports me to a bitterly cold prairie expanse and a lonesome Winnipeg cityscape. Using lyricism as a form of cartography, Samson maps the city in short vignettes from the chaotic march of investment bankers beneath Portage Avenue to aggressive urban renewal effort in the city’s North end, all the while declaring, "I hate Winnipeg". Scattered across Samson’s lyrics are references to landmarks throughout Winnipeg. My goal was to visit as many sights of lyrical representation in one week with a map. On this adventure, my only sources of direction were the Winnipeg skyline and the vague itinerary presented to me by Weakerthans lyrics.

"The airport [is] always almost empty this time of the year, so let’s go play on a baggage carousel..."
- Aside
Winnipeg James Armstrong Richardson International Airport (YGW): 200 Wellington Ave.



Arriving from Toronto’s Pierson International Airport, it’s only by default that my first official stop would be the baggage carousel mentioned in "Aside". My suitcase was one of the first to come out the shoot and onto the carousel, but I hung back and let it cycle while a throng of people wrestled for the few square feet of space at its curve.

"A spectre [is] haunting Albert Street..."
- Pamphleteer
48 Albert Street



Some believe that Samson, in reference to the first sentence of the Communist Manifesto, pays tribute to Winnipeg’s tradition of leftist radicalism, specifically the Winnipeg General Strike of 1919. In the last decade or so, Winnipeg’s leftist radical tradition has spawned an overt anarchist tendency which has declared part of Albert Street to be an "autonomous zone". Albert Street is a part of this long and still evolving history. In this sense, a spectre is haunting Albert Street – the spectre of the working class.

"Wellington’s Wednesdays" (song)
The St. Charles Hotel: 235 Notre Dam Avenue



Wellington’s is, or perhaps was, a bar located in the basement of the St. Charles Hotel at Notre Dam and Albert Street. Whether or not the bar remains in operation is open for debate; not once did I see any activity on the street to suggest the raucousness described in Samson’s tribute. The lyrics "curtains never open, faces never show" hit upon this. However, the elders of the Winnipeg music scene know that, during the 1980s, Wellington’s was the prairie capitol of goth, punk and new wave; the Cure performed there in August 1981.

Be sure not to miss the vintage advertisements that still remain on many buildings throughout the city; few cities in Canada can claim such a collection of colourful murals. As Winnipeg continues to grow and renew, it seems almost certain that these murals, or the structures that serve as their canvas, will go "missing, like teeth".

"Let’s plant a bomb at city hall..."
- Confessions of a Futon Revolutionary
Winnipeg City Hall, at the Winnipeg Civic Centre: 510 Main Street



Would-be futon revolutionaries take warning – Winnipeg’s city hall is located directly across from its police headquarters. This and because it’s in Winnipeg makes it a less than ideal target for revolutionary direct action. That’s not to say that the intimidating building wouldn’t benefit from being razed.

"A thousand sharpened elbows in the underground..."
- One Great City!
Underground concourse: Vicinity of Notre Dam & Main Street

When visiting Winnipeg during its sunny summer days, it’s easy to disregard the unforgiving winter months. Evidence of winter’s treachery can be found in the enclosed footbridges that connect buildings to one another, as well as the hermetically sealed glass bus shelters. Still, the most telling evidence is the underground concourse which begins just on the edge of the Exchange and connects many of the downtown office towers and hotels, mostly for the benefit of those who work within them. During rush hour, it is not difficult to imagine the cramped marble quarters being filled with agitated business people, making their way to lunch or waiting chauffeured cars.

"All-night restaurant North Kildona..."
- None of the Above
Salisbury House: 759 Pembina Highway



Some years ago I decided that, if I ever found myself in Manitoba, I would make a point of eating at the all-night restaurant mentioned in "None of the Above". In the end, this plan was only partially met. Given the suburban layout of the neighbourhood of North Kildona and the rumoured historic taste of its coffee, the lyrics seem to describe the scene inside of a Salisbury House restaurant.

Salisbury House, or simply Sal’s to the locals, is a regional chain that could best be described to outsiders as a Denny’s-type chain. After a Saturday night performance at Freud’s, the party wasn’t quite over. At 2:30am on the weekend, finding food means leaving downtown Winnipeg and heading to the suburbs for either late-night Chinese or "Sal’s". With eight all-night locations scattered across the city, it’s just a matter of selecting one. But at North Kildona, the pancakes apparently tasted like rubber and the service was really slow. Between this review and that contained in "None of the Above", perhaps the location isn’t worth visiting after all. We ended up a nondescript plaza at the side of the Pembina Highway, which my hosts assured me was more or less identical to the one in North Kildona.

"Out under the Disraeli, with rusty train track tires..."
- Fallow
9 Rover Avenue


(Photo from The Uniter: Winnipeg’s Weekly Urban Journal)

"The Disraeli" refers to the Disraeli Freeway and by extension the Disraeli Bridge. Despite warnings from locals that the area wasn’t safe, even in daylight, I studied the incomplete bus route map I grabbed from the airport. Parts of North Winnipeg remind me of a forgotten city where once populated streets abruptly turn desolate and confrontational. The street that I was walking on at around 2pm transitioned from an industrial strip of auto repair shops to a small neighbourhood of older homes.

Judging by the images that I looked up on Google Street View after the fact, the Disraeli Bridge is hulking, rusty and utilitarian; not much of a sight to look at. Yet there is still something charming about it. "It’s the best place in all of Winnipeg to watch the sunset," insists a former co-worker. If you’re more daring than me, you can watch the sunset and then use the cover of night to head south to the train yard that Sampson references. Just don’t go alone.

"I love this place, the enormous sky..."

The best adventures change something about the individual; my changes were both emotional and physical. All of the walking and a largely vegan diet led to some weight loss. When modeling my souvenir t-shirt, my mother commented that she could see my ribs through it. Similar to a lyric in "Aside", all of this wandering wore holes into a brand new pair of shoes that I "got for free" shortly before leaving for Winnipeg. In a short time, I had worked my way into the dialectic of the city’s complex social landscape. While I cannot articulate its specifics, I can appreciate how Samson is able to draw so much inspiration from it.

Winnipeg and the landmarks discussed are tantamount to Graceland for Weakerthans fans. Since visiting Winnipeg, the experience of listening to their recordings has been altered; I now have a more intimate relationship to some of the raw lyrical material. The visions that were once simply the product of my imagination have been replaced by memories of what actually is there, in the endearing city of Winnipeg.
------
To contact Theo Markou, email him at cameraninja@gmail.com and be sure to visit his tumblr thisblogcouldbeyourlife. His original Weakerthans Guide to Winnipeg is 25 pages long and deserves to be published in all publications relevant to Canadian and non-Canadian music. This is an edited version only for the purpose of Too Rude Magazine. And if this doesn’t get published elsewhere, I hope the members of the Weakerthans stumble upon it in pride. Thank you for sharing, Theo.

THE FRENCH ISSUE: IF I WERE TO BE IN PARIS

Thinking about spending three days in one city is not exactly a fun thought. I mean, only three days? That's torture. European capitals are often victim of the three-day method of travel and Paris is no exception. A lot of people end up hating Paris. If we had all the time, money and visas in the world, maybe Paris would feel like a better city. Maybe we'd spend longer amounts of time there to erase the bitter taste in our mouth.

If you had three days in Paris, what would you do? Here's only the beginning of my must-do list, which excludes a lot of boutiques, dance clubs, and mouth-watering savoury French food.

Find Amelie. Amelie has been one of my favourite films since I was a youngster, so it only makes sense to track down the beautiful Parisian scenery in the film which is largely based in the neighbourhood of Montmartre. Could such a whimsical Amelie-esque moment in Paris be available elsewhere in the city?

Visit the Sweatshop. More than just a cafe, the Sweatshop is a creative concept situated near St. Martin. The space is equipped with ten Singer sewing machines and a communal table with rotating workshops. You pay by the hour if you want to use the machines, kind of like a stitch-and-bitch except not free. Sounds heavenly and productive. The couture counterculture begins here.



Admire Patisserie Pain de Sucre, because you can't visit France and avoid the bakeries, cafes, baguettes and wine even if you are gluten-free, child. This bakery was featured in Wallpaper Magazine and evidently dozens of bloggers have featured it as the go-to pastry shop, the most tempting, old-world and luminous of them all.


Image from Paris Patisseries

Go to Colette. A trip to Paris is incomplete without ogling over designer wears from Yves Saint Laurent, Chanel, Comme des Garcons, Lanvin, Chloe, and more. That's why I'd window shop at Colette, a boutique carrying lustful items mentioned by the fashion gods themselves. All those thousands of Euros. It hurts so good.



Next stop: actually learning French!

During my recent week-long stay in Houston, I had the opportunity to check out the multitude of art galleries, collections and museums that the city offers. It turns out that big-bottomed Houston is actually bustling when it comes to the arts. Some of the major sights include the Menil Collection – a collection of mainly surrealist and contemporary work where you’ll see lots of Rothko and Warhol, and the Station Museum for Contemporary Art where I was blown away by Charif Benhelima’s “Welcome to Belgium” photo exhibit about immigration and the darker side of Belgium’s wealth, which (sadly) ended May 30.

When scouring Houston's art scene, you cannot forget about the the hearty, well-rounded and internationally flavoured Museum of Fine Arts Houston (MFAH) which showcases a fantastic variety of textiles, jewelry, sculptures, paintings and so much more from around the world. My favourites included Pre-Columbian, Native American Art, and African collections.

But there was one gallery that spoke to me, and that was the Contemporary Arts Museum Houston otherwise known as CAMH, which also stands for Centre for Addiction and Mental Health here in Toronto (I had to point that one out to ya’ll).

From May 15 until July 25, 2010, CAMH will be hosting the HAND+MADE Program which deals with the “performative impulse in art and craft” and the expansion of art and craft. On the day I visited, I was lucky enough to see the majority of artist’s in house giving brief talks and answering a Q&A about their work, which was an enriching experience to say the least.

The intrigue of the exhibition primarily came to me for its focus on textiles. I was most impressed by Nick Cave’s work (not the musician!) titled “Soundsuits”. Not only are these suits prominent structures but they can also be worn by panache dancers, as noted in his video where the Soundsuits debut on the streets. Cave’s work is absolutely stunning as statue forms, coming to life in their performances. He has sewn a range of materials into his suits such as metal toys, various textiles, human hair, beads, sequins, twigs, buttons, and various flea market discoveries, all for the sheer purpose of making noise while movement takes place.



"When you're raised by a single mother with six brothers and lots of hand-me-downs, you have to figure out how to make those clothes your own," he says in a New York Times interview in 2009. A combination of thrift, dance, and a BA in fine arts led to a job at the School of the Institute of Chicago where he was graduate director of fashion. This is where he truly began embracing this type of work.

Performative or not, the sheer beauty and detail in his work is astounding; it is impossible not to stare at his costumes for hours upon hours, analyzing each detail.

Other notable artists include Sabrina Gschwandtner and her installation comparing the 12-frames-per-second labour of film to that of crocheting. She filmed herself crocheting just to make it even better. It was interesting but unfortunately her talk was loaded with cryptic Marxist terms that put the entire room to sleep. Much like Sabrina, many artists focused on the idea of arts and crafts as “labour and production” as performance.

I found the audacity of Michael Rea to be promising with his playable instruments crafted out of wood, and with immense detail. He provided a video of the instruments being played, but I stood there forever analyzing the depth and work put into each wooden instrument.



Christy Matson surprised me with her ability to transform textile into sounds with her “Sonic Structure” piece; the textile is given a breath of life when gallery goers touch the fabric and a sharp static sound is heard. The sound is also malleable based on how one interacts with the textile. Fashion’s next top designers better get on this.



Sheila Pepe is another American artist whose Rodarte-esque threads overtook the CAMH gallery space. Her work was easy to interact with, although security guards would scare you off if you tried. A big hanging glob of thick threads from the ceiling never looked so appealing. The interesting thing about this exhibition was the use of textiles in several pieces, yet all pieces, aside from Nick Cave’s Soundsuits, truly lacked wearability. It made for a fascinating exhibit; an elixir of all things I love about the fusing of art and fashion.



I highly recommend this entire exhibit for Texans and tourists, and maybe CAMH as a whole institution. Far from languid, it’s an exhibit for anyone who has ever loved and appreciated the art of crafts. It’s for anyone that has once been a child and has held a relationship – no matter how small – with the art of creating things.

All photos by me excluding the one of Christy Matson available at her website.

TOO RUDE: CITY GUIDE TO AUSTIN

I just came back from Austin, Texas last week, and it was awesome. It was my first couchsurfing experience, and my first visit to Texas as an adult. Austin is known for its art and music scene (see: South by South West), especially live music, which infiltrates the venues lining 6th street on any given night.



The city’s slogan “Keep Austin Weird” is telling, with its bustling little cafes, vintage shops and crazy people with crazy businesses such as Hoek’s “Death Metal” pizza (where they serve pizza only accompanied by the drilling sound of death metal). Having said all that, people in Austin seem to dig bicycles, recycling and animals. Everyone is friendly, polite and nice, at least compared to Toronto. Southern hospitality, as Ludacris once stated promptly.



My days in Austin were marked by Guadalupe street at University of Texas, South Congress (SoCo) and other little nifty “communities” around downtown Austin. I mention communities because, having been to Houston and realizing how hell-bent Texans are on driving their cars, there ain’t much of a need to “walk around” unless you’re walking around in a mall. Downtown seems dead. This can be true for Austin as well, but Austin seems more established in this realm. I knew Austin was going to be cool, but it exceeded my expectations. Here’s how Austin worked its magic on me.

Where you gonna eat?!

Home Slice Pizza (1415 South Congress) is an established pizza joint in the South Congress neighbourhood. Expect to be waiting minimum 30 minutes for a table for this legendary pizza during peak dinner hours. It’s like Toronto’s Pizzeria Libretto, and equally as delicious. Try the mushroom pepperoni pizza without substitutions or design your own pizza. Weird fact: they’re closed on Tuesdays. Home Slice Pizza online.


Kat enjoying a slice or 10 at Home Slice

If you’re not totally stuffed at Home Slice Pizza then head across the street to Jo’s Coffee (1300 South Congress Avenue) for some drinks. It’s got a cute outdoor sitting area and is great for lunch and snacks, not just post-meal coffee and tea (both warm and cold). See it for yourself and visit them here.

El Mercado (1302 South First Street) is a place I never ate at, but according to the girl I was staying with who works at El Mercado, it has some serious Tex-Mex. Skip Guero’s in SoCo and head to El Mercado instead. El Mercado Austin online.

Tacodeli (1500 Spyglass, South Austin) is a legendary taco joint that attracts long line-ups during lunch. They’re only open from 8am-3pm only because they make such good money during these hours. See their website and notice the sheer amount of awards they've won from the city. My most memorable moment at Tacodeli was purchasing a bumper sticker stating, “Please be kind to cyclists” and some Dublin Dr. Pepper which uses sugar cane instead of refined sugar. The taco, I hate to say it, was subpar only because after eating it I realized that I do not like shredded chicken or corn tortillas. But their options are plentiful and won’t disappoint.


What's the deal with Dublin Dr. Pepper? Amazing. Dr. Pepper was invented in Texas.

Magnolia Café (1920 South Congress Avenue). If you are completely and utterly wasted in SoCo, Magnolia Cafe might be a good place to pick up some late-night breakfast food. I had a slice of pecan pie (a southern specialty) and I couldn’t complain. It’s got a diner feel and attracts all sorts of Austin’s weirdos. More info here.

Shopping, OMG, Shopping

Buffalo Exchange (2904 Guadalupe Street) is a big treat for Canadians heading south of the border. I understand that there are many locations across the states, my favourite so far being in Brooklyn. I did find some great designer items here but they were a little ratty, torn or stained. So much for the BCBG dress and Alex Wang top :( I can always dream though. Anyways, you’re destined to find something grand at Buffalo Exchange.

Cream Vintage (various locations). I couldn’t get over Cream Vintage simply because they are a vintage shop that provides alterations at a cost for all the sweet ill-fitting finds. I respect that in a store. They have three locations, one of which is wholesale open on the first weekend of every month. The website is under construction but you’ll definitely hear about this place.


So many antique stores all over Texas. This one is from Galveston.

Feathers Boutique (1700 B Congress Ave, enter Milton St.) was probably my favourite vintage store of all the thrift and antique stores plaguing Texas with finds such as Salvatore Ferragamo shoes galore and a really unique selection of clothing. They have a blog but don’t forget to check out all the other stores lining SoCo. You won’t be disappointed. They ship internationally, too!


Expect a hearty collection of cowboy hats and boots in all parts of Texas.

If you’re visiting Austin for thrift stores, see the Vintage Around Town Guide which you can find in selected stores or online. A map for printing is available.

TIPS for Going Out

Honestly, living in Austin must be exhausting if you’re going to go out on 6th street all the time. But from a tourist’s perspective, it really is a place you have to experience as a visitor.


Red River street is home to many venues like Emo's and Stubb's. Sadly, I missed Drake at Stubb's :( Sold out show!


Shangri’la (1016 East 6th Street) is a little hidden joint out of the way from the major 6th street establishments. I spent my time there chugging PBR’s like a poorboy and listening to hip-hop which was actually amazingly good. Shangri has a huge patio, grass, benches, and a roof that is really, really, really tempting to jump on. There’s probably a pool table downstairs. All in all, a good experience. Website: Shangri’la Austin.

TIP: Wanna go out in Austin? Pick up flyers! The highlight of my trip to Austin was definitely “Les Artistes: The Revolution”, a fashion and art show taking place at the Scoot Inn (1308 E. 4th street) on a hazy Saturday, May 22nd headed by Austin-woman-in-charge Grace Rogers. All proceeds from the show benefited the Heather Deering Cancer Foundation.


Grace Rogers and Les Artistes: Fashion and Art show


We arrived at what seemed to be a back yard equipped with a DIY runway and a frenzy of local designers prepping their models for the 9 o’clock appearance. It was funky, different, and so freshly Austin. It reminded me of Alternative Fashion Week (F.A.T.) here in Toronto with southern flare. The show included Lindsey Marie White’s recycled designs, Nunca Nunca (also recycled), Melissa Long, and outlandish Aaron Torres. All were impressive. I was happy and glad to see young independent designers living out their dreams.




Images above: Austin's Lindsey Marie White and Nunca Nunca respectively reconstruct vintages garments into one-of-a-kind pieces. Les Artistes Fashion and Art show is a great documentation of this type of craft in Austin.

TIP: Too much to do in Austin? Pre-googling is your best bet. Googling such terms like “Austin indie” or “Austin entertainment” will lead you to a plethora of websites and blogs. Your best bet is to wander around 6th street or Red River street in search of live music. But if you’re a little too organized or you’re looking for just the perfect band to fit your evening, search online in advance at the following event websites:

Austin 360
6street
Austin Chronicle
The Austinist
Do512: What to do in Austin
The Deli Austin
AustinMe: Music and Entertainment
Show List Austin (Great!)
Eventful Austin

Nature

I didn’t expect amazing trails and nature paths in Austin, and I never go to a city without visiting at least one park. Along the river (that goes through Zilker park), you can canoe, kayak and go bat-watching in the evening at South Congress bridge. Yes, bats. There are tons of them in Austin and they seem to be the city's furry little winged mascots.


Hamilton Pool is where its at

Hamilton Pool is a 45 minute drive out from Austin and is highly recommended with one of Texas’s best swimming holes. When was the last time you swam in unpolluted water remotely close to downtown Toronto? This place gets busy on weekends, and rightfully so. On the other side of Hamilton Pool conservation area, there is a river you can walk across with little to no people in the area. The secluded beauty of this place is astounding, and rare. It’s a must-do in Austin. No excuses.


Barton Creek is perfect if you want to sit in the sun with your feet immersed in water. Bring your binoculars for dog-watching.

Barton Creek is in south Austin, not quite downtown but still within Austin city limits (no pun intended). Here you can swim in the river and sit on rocks to sunbathe. Expect a lot of dogs to swim with you, and really nice trails. Unlike Houstonians, whose streets are lined with trees that serve no purpose other than to drive beside, Austinites really love their nature. If you come to Austin and don’t visit this place, I’ll be really. really disappointed in you.

You know, Copenhagen and I have a special and loving relationship, albeit dysfunctional. We've fallen in love, fallen out of love, played the blame game, ended our relationships on Facebook, and now we are both at a happy medium where we can enjoy each others company in a civil and respectful manner. All I need to do is test our new relationship with a little visit. You know, to make sure we're both doing okay.

In January 2008, I packed by bags and headed for Copenhagen for 6 months of exchange at University of Copenhagen. What was a terrifying experience at first turned into something delightful, eye-opening and just plain "hygge" (the Danish concept/way of life for "coziness"). Although it was stressful at times dealing with "Danish ways", I look back now and realize that my life wouldn't be the same if I never lived there. 

No, this is not turning into a sob story. Many friends were made, and many beers were consumed as several bicycles roamed the streets like it was no big deal. This is normal to the Danes; environmentalism, sustainability, high taxes and tall Carlsberg's. In lieu of COP 15 and to anyone who is interested in visiting my beloved little city in the near future, I present you with my guide to night life in Copenhagen. Note: I haven't been to Copenhagen since 2008 so I'm not exactly "up to date". Feel free to criticize this post.

A guide by neighbourhoods and by streets


Nørrebro The Nørrebro neighbourhood houses the long street that is Nørrebrogade. I lived off this street, quite north past another long road called Jagtvej in a little dormitory/kollegiet. Nørrebro was the neighbourhood I biked through every day to get right into the centre of town (25 minutes by bike, 50 minutes walking). This is where you see daily Danish commuter life, not to mention all the delicious shwarma and falafel joints that dot the street.

What's good in this area?
Be sure to check out the streets Elmegade and Fælledvej; they intersect with Nørrebrogade. These are some of my favourite street to bike down, plus there are loads of ethnic shops and shoe shops. It's a little like Vesterbro (you'll see) with lots of Middle Eastern foods/cool shops/awesome cafes happening.

RUST. Proper DJ nights, great bands, and just all around easy access and good cheer. As a non-Dane, is it wrong for me to say that I love this place? I discovered Kleerup, Egyptian Lover and Choir of Young Believers here.

Blågårdsgade Jazz Cafe. Cheap drinks and relaxed times with live jazz playing several nights a week for free. Just one of those little heartwarming discoveries found floating off from the main streets. There are other crafty and thrifty to be found in this area. Beware, thrifting Copenhagen is stupidly expensive compared to North America.

Stengade 30. They have reggae nights every Sunday. A lot of African - especially Ghanaian - expats come here (all 15 of them). Fun under the fake Jamaican sun.

Vesterbrogade Welcome to another street with tons of ethnic restaurants, colourful galleries, hot clothing shops, and cafes. Just off of Vesterbrogade is the "up-and-coming" meat-packaging district on a street called Istegade. This is also the "red light" district (aka: a handful of sex shops and maybe two hookers). Vesterbrogade is a very long street well worth the bike trot.

If you are in the area, find Lakagehuset, it has some of the best pastries, breads and muffins the city has to offer. It's more or less across Hard Rock Cafe. When you go, please fed-ex me some baked goods because I am drooling as I type this. There's also one right across Christianshavn metro station where you will need to get off, if you want to see Christiania.

Vestergade Not to be confused with the drawn out Vesterbrogade, this is yet another street that houses tiny vintage shops and cafes. It's filled with surprises and hidden urban gems.

Downtown: Various streets! Time for Google Maps, no? Anything is close to you on a bike when you're in baby Copenhagen!

FISK (Sankt Peders Stræde 1). It's one of those hybrid vintage clothing shops/cafes/bars all in one. Copenhagen meets Berlin.



Salonen (Sankt Peders Stræde 20) for a pretty decently priced sandwich and local ecological beer, with heaps of flyers on the walls.

Din Nye Ven (Sankt Peders Stræde 34). A cool place to read/drink in the daytime with live music on most nights. It gets packed and is awesome (minus the smoking - damn Danes, update your indoor smoking laws). This is one of my favourite places ever. I absolutely love this street. Din Nye Ven (which means Your New Friend) is crucial in the night or day.

Living Room (Larsbjørnsstræde 17). Living Room sells fair trade/organic coffees and tees. They also have a really nice cozy basement, and really cute postcards lying around. I was sold the instant I popped inside. Living Room defines hygge one step at a time. Check out the neighbouring Studiestræde if you like to look at cute stuff like I do.

Bankeråt (Ahlefeldtsgade 29). A cafe/bar that has human-sized taxidermied people/animals all around. I believe they have international newspapers there for your reading pleasure, too. I love this place and I wish I took pictures of its interiors. But taxidermied stuff + beer? Kind of a big deal.

Culture Box (Kronprinsessegade 54). Probably one of the hippest places for house, electro, and minimalist German techno. But I wonder if this venue is "sooo 2008" or what. Maybe there are other venues like this that I've never been to. Regardless, they host events with DJs such as Ellen Allien. FYI: The Cheap Monday store of Copenhagen is at Kronprinsensgade 7.

Vega (Enghavevej 40). Not exactly my favourite place, but this is a venue to check out while planning your visit to Copenhagen because there are always decent touring bands playing here. This is where I met Jens Lekman for the *second* time. Be weary of their house nights. Although good DJs play here sometimes, it's easy to run into creepy men trying to hit on young women. Fortunately, the place is open til 5am and then at that point, you can just bike away from the creepers.



The Meatpacking District (Kødbyen) Remember when I mentioned Istegade? Well, now I am going to talk about it some more. Istegade is one of the major arteries of Kødbyen, translating to "meat city". Istegade is populated with boutiques, bars, and other strange discoveries. This is the first street in the world where pornography became legal; you'll find sex shops and up-and-coming cafes/shops to go to. As for the hookers, I never saw more than four at a time. The area is generally safe. For more info, here is a nice little Wallpaper* review of the hood.

Kødbyen is primarily around the street of Halmtorvet. It is parallel to Istegade. There are some bars and clubs that opened up recently, such as Jolene. It's not advertised as such, but I'm pretty sure it's an Icelandic lesbian bar with impressive lighting and decor. Kødbyen is a cool place to walk around in the daytime because it's very raw (and I'm not talking about meat), however, it's also on the verge of gentrification.



Råhuset. Yeah, it means "Raw House". Råhuset lies off of Istegade and is an ex-meat factory. Strange, artsy, and Scandinavian. Actually, this might be on Halmtorvej. This area in general is carnivorous. Vegans: proceed with caution.

Karriere (Flæsketorvet 57). Ok, so this is another major street in Meat City. Karriere is a play-on-yuppies; literally, the name of the bar/restaurant means Career. It's pricey and yuppified to a point where I'm not sure if it's ironic anymore. But take a walk inside. The design and decor is, yet again, fantastically original.

Okay, so I think I've exhausted my Copenhagen resources. There are some places that I just don't remember the names and locations of, but overall, the main goods of my Copen-half-year have been revealed. Tourist or local, feel free to contribute to the list.

I got sick from food poisoning a lot this past summer in Vietnam. Despite this, I can’t seem to get over how excellent the French restaurants were in Ho Chi Minh City. You probably won’t head to Asia for a couple of French meals, but given the history of Indochina, French cuisine has been integrated into meals of the Vietnamese. High-quality ingredients paired with cheap Southeast Asian prices are pretty sweet for a Westerner who had missed her European food at the 2-month mark. If you’re in HCMC for a long haul like I was, check out the following restaurants a la Français.


Typical means of transportation in Vietnam: motorbikes

The Refinery Vietnam was colonized by France around 1784. As a culinary result, French cuisine impacted Vietnamese styles of cooking all across the board. The Refinery is a hidden restaurant in the deep alleyway-courtyards of Saigon. Although the view is covered by high rise buildings, it’s a good place to get away from the city smog and people. The restaurant actually used to be an abandoned refinery at some point. Meals are pricey for Vietnamese standards; expect to pay around $14 for chicken breast, roasted vegetables and mashed potatoes – a meal I could easily have made myself. Check this place out for its ambiance and bring your friends out for the patio. Don’t forget to go dancing at Vasco’s next door afterwards. 74 Hai Ba Trung, District 1.

Le Jardin Le Jardin is attached to the French Cultural Centre of Saigon (IDECAF) and hosts the cheapest place to eat high-quality French food in the city with dishes going for around $7, plus the wine. The French must really appreciate green spaces because there are tons of plants and grass patches around this area, making for a peaceful getaway from the noisy streets. Not only was Le Jardin two minutes away from my apartment, but the price was something I could not get over. 31 Thai Van Lung, District 1.


David Beckham-esque celebrity endorsements for chicken


Ty Coz Yet another hidden French family-owned restaurant, and possibly the best French food in Southeast Asia! A three-course meal in this home-away-from-home cost around $14 which is a steal of a lifetime. Many of the ingredients are imported, especially the delicate French raw oysters. The French waiter from Lyon explained the entire menu to us which took around 15 minutes; apparently the menu changes daily/weekly. I love fixed price with tons of options. I would kill to come back here and stuff myself into a comatose state. Incognito at first, Ty Coz is located inside of an apartment on the second floor (if my memory serves me correct) at 178/4 Pasteur in District 1, right by the cathedral.


Typical Vietnamese streetwear. NO SUN!


Fanny’s From what I’ve heard, Fanny’s is a French-owned ice cream chain. I haven’t seen it anywhere else in the world, but damn, I wish I had one in my backyard because it is so stupendous. Fanny’s has the craziest flavours like young rice which tastes like rice pudding), chocolate chili, passion fruit, avocado, vanilla macadamia nut, ginger (!!!) and cinnamon. Where can you find cinnamon ice cream in Toronto? Because it's in my TOP 5 BEST ICE CREAM FLAVOUR category. If you are in the area, check out T3 in the Temple Garden building right next door for some of the most intense and delicious DIY barbecuing you’ll ever do. 29-31 Ton That Thiep, District 1.

MONTREAL EATS ITS YOUNG

Too Rude Magazine’s guide to Montreal

Last weekend, my partner in crime, Jamie, and I, drove to Montreal for the long weekend. Despite the ass-awful parking, the peculiar automobile drivers, and the freezing cold, we had a pretty awesome time. I ate tons of food, stared at tons of sweet bikes, and jaunted through neighbourhoods aplenty. Here is my short and sweet guide to visiting Montreal for 3 days.

Eat
Une Crepe (on Mont Royal just west of Mont Royal metro)
Une Crepe’s decor was trés classy, spacious and cozy. I purchased a cone-shaped Nutella crepe which was delicious, but very filling after the first crepe I ate an hour beforehand. What can I say? I love crepes.


Rue Mont Royal


Le Flambard (851 Rue Rachel E, corner of St. Christophe)
Le Flambard is a choice-heavy, super-tiny prix-fixe restaurant with minimal decor serving excellent traditional food from Lyon. I stuffed myself to death here with a killer four-course meal. I enjoyed a tomato, garlic and duck fat soup; a spinach, goat cheese and mushroom puff pastry; scallops in garlic and cream sauce, and a crème brulee made out of perfection. The whole meal was a bit pricey ($34, cheaper options available) but decent for a nice and intimate night out. BYOW – bring your own wine because the place does not serve alcohol.

La Banquise, 994 rue Rachel Est (at Ave de la Parc LaFontaine; metro Mont-Royal)
You cannot go wrong with a 24-hour poutine machine with over twenty-five varieties of poutine as well as sandwiches, burgers, hot dogs and petit dejeuner options. Once operating as a mom-and-pop dairy/hotdog/hamburger joint in 1968, the place has moved on to being the post-night-out-hot spot for stuffing oneself to death. I tried the veggie poutine even though I was really curious about the smoked meat poutine. Check out the menu here!


Cathedral on Rue Rachel

Croissant de Lune on Saint-Denis (just south of Ontario)
I first discovered Croissant de Lune when I was 16. They serve amazing crepes with plenty of options. I remember eating strawberry crepes with chocolate sauce. I didn’t get a chance to come here this past weekend but I totally recommend it. Still.

Going out
Montreal has this reputation of being a party city, especially compared to Toronto, where a usual night out is stiff and judgmental. We didn’t go out excessively, probably because we were too tired from walking around all day. Our big night out occurred on Crescent street. Now, I’m not sure what kind of reputation Crescent street has with Montreal crowds; is it comparable to Richmond street in Toronto? Jamie is a big fan of Irish pubs and we couldn’t get more authentic than Hurley’s at 1225 rue Crescent (southern part of Crescent). Not only did they pour an amazing pint of Guinness but they sold us with their rustic decor, Celtic wood carving, and artful rooms. Pretty versatile for an Irish pub with friendly staff and some cover bands. St. Laurent is another busy street worth checking out for shopping and going out, but alas, no time.

Sights
Basilica de Notre-Dame: Probably the most stunning building in Canada with a ridiculously detailed Catholic interior. For a five dollar entry fee and a location in the middle of Old Montreal, you have to see it at least once.



Museum of Contemporary Art: Located at 185, Sainte-Catherine Ouest, the MOCA is a small but fulfilling collection of contemporary art with high hopes to please everyone walking through its doors. Current exhibitions include Tricia Middleton, Francine Savard and Tacita Dean, with Middleton being my favourite for her sensory experience of a contemporary version of Plato’s cave. She stunned me with her textile details in the ceiling and wall work.

McCord Museum of History: 690 Sherbrooke Street West. An impressive and interactive museum focusing on the history of Montreal. Current exhibition includes “Being Irish in Quebec” which remembers the Irish immigration from the late 1800s and looks at current Irish neighbourhoods in Montreal. Totally worth the visit if, you know, you're into Canadian history.


Old Montreal

Botanical Gardens: 4101 Rue Sherbrooke Est. Don’t expect to walk here from the McCord Museum because it’s quite far east. Situated by the retro Olympic stadium, the Botanical Gardens are currently hosting a traditional Chinese garden/lantern exhibit outdoors which glows beautifully at night. The best part is that the Gardens use TFT LED Contactless systems which substantially reduce energy consumption.




Et moi! Dans l'Insectorium